Dior is now without John Galliano, and so far has failed to find a fashion chief. The collection in Paris was like a fireworks display, with some damp squibs, but there were enough brilliantly exploding rockets and catherine wheels to delight the eye.
However, Dior boss Sidney Toledano has always made it clear he will make no appointment until he has found the right man. This collection, designed by Bill Gaytten, received a rapturous reception backstage, but the applause from the audience was half-hearted.
John Galliano is an incredible act to follow and the House of Dior has no intentions of lowering its standards. But although this collection was not a vintage one, there was still much to admire.